Sunday, April 17, 2016

Road Trip to Northeastern Turkey - Part 5 - Bayburt, Karadeniz and Ordu

We rose early from our beds at the Teacher's House though Mehmet is always the earliest (and the latest) having made an early morning recce of the town before we were ready to depart.  For the first time, breakfast was not included in our lodging rate (about $15 per person) and was not available at the Teacher's House.  Even tea was not available.  Very shocking!  We decided to immediately depart Ispir and head for Bayburt where we would breakfast.

The metropolis of Ispir
The drive was beautiful in the Friday morning sunshine across the pastures with the low mountains in the distance.  It took us about two hours to reach Bayburt and while the road was not dreadful we were very glad we did not have to make that drive the night before.  We found a breakfast spot in the city center and ate quite well.  Typical big Turkish breakfast which to we added sucuk, the amazingly delicious Turkish sausage.

The scenery between Ispir and Bayburt was beautiful in my opinion

Our breakfast spot in Bayburt - we were quite hungry and thirsty by then

Yum - included dried meat (front center) a specialty of the area.  As usual I got hot water and used my Starbucks instant decaf coffee (brought from the U.S.)
 We walked a bit in the city center - nice enough - the Coruh River runs through the middle.  Bayburt's main claim to historical artefacts is its castle/fortress crowning the neighboring hill.  This is one of the best preserved in Turkey - starting as an Armenian stronghold then rebuilt as by the early Turks.  We did not drive to it but just looked from the city.

The center city of Bayburt with the Coruh River which we had followed all the way from Yusefeli

The citadel of Bayburt from the modern city center
A better look at this well preserved treasure from the middle ages


We thence headed off northwest towards the Black Sea, Karadeniz.  We drove through Gumushane, stopping there for a break and to buy some batteries for Mehmet.  We met the Black Sea at Tirebolu where we stopped again at this lively city.  I needed to get an automated pass for the rental car to use in Istanbul.  The toll over the bridges can no longer be paid with cash so an automated prepaid toll card is required.  This is acquired at the local post office where Mehmet took me but then departed to get something.  There was a quite a line but I was at the window fumbling with my bad Turkish before he returned.  We obtained the card and rejoined Alejandro and Randy who were relaxing at a cafe by the sea.


We stopped at Gumushane (literally Silver House)

It seemed like a pretty lively and nicely situated place

The fortress at Tirebolu on the Black Sea
We then headed west along the coast road (and a nice road it is) through Giresun (we didn't stop there - I had visited there in 2013 and was not too impressed with it) towards Ordu where we would meet Cevahir Sumer and her sisters (Ayse and Huriye Batuk) and brother (Ismail Batuk) and his wife (Meltem) and their young son, Berke.   We drove along the coast savoring the views and reached Ordu in late afternoon.  The ladies welcomed us.

Huriye waves from Casa Batuk

Cevahir was so nice to travel from Ankara to Ordu to be with us also

Happy to see the beautiful and vivacious Ayse again
Their elegant apartment is located only a few blocks from the sea where we walked and even stuck our toes in the sea.  The beach is nice but littered (as is so much of Turkey) which detracted a lot from its appeal.

The beach near Casa Batuk at Ordu - pretty nice but a little litter strewn

At the Black Sea

Alejandro admires his first experience of the Black Sea

The gang at Ordu - across the water is Russia and Ukraine

Some pretty cows with colorful necklaces were penned near the beach
When we returned the ladies fixed us a fish feast as an early dinner which we happily devoured.  Black Sea fish is very delicious and ranged from large ones to very small which are fried and eaten whole.


Adorable Berke

Berke's mom, Meltem, lives in an apartment in the same complex as the Batuk sisters

Roses from the garden - note the baklava nearby

Actually a decent photo of Mehmet

My fish at Casa Batuk - fresh from the Black Sea

The fantastic small friend fish - artistically presented

I ate enough for two people - no regrets though

Efes beer in the traditional big bottles - the way it should be served

Thanks for the great dinner!
After visiting some more we went to the city center where we were supposed to stay at a renovated Ottoman mansion (konak) with a sea view.  The hotel has mistakenly reserved 1 room for 2 nights instead of 2 rooms for 1 night.  Ayse, who was in charge of the arrangements, planned to move Alejandro and Mehmet to a nearby modern seaside hotel, Hotel Baliktasi (Fish Stone).  However, our room though it was spacious and comfortable looking did not have a working AC unit so we decided to opt for the seaside hotel also.  We were given large rooms that were nothing special but turned out when we were able to see in the morning to have great sea views.  Randy stayed to go to bed at the hotel while the rest of us met up in the city center to take a stroll along the seafront.  Very relaxing and very nice to be together again with this friendly Ordu family (I had visited them in 2013).

At the seaside at Ordu - there is a lovely long walk along the sea the length of the central city

We worked off a very few of the calories consumed at dinner on our stroll