We set off from Kars in brilliant sunshine in mid-morning. This day was to bring us into the Georgian region and start our pilgrimage to the Georgian churches. It was also to bring us to the first of two days of breathtaking scenery in some of the most remote places in Turkey. Let's get started!
We skirted north and a little east of Kars to Lake Cildir. This alpine lake is gorgeous and apparently super cold in the winter (which starts in September according to a local). The road went lakeside up the eastern side from south to north. It is a sparsely populated area that is inhabited by herdsmen and fishermen. We stopped at Dogruyol to see the ruins of our first Georgian church (unless you count the one we saw at Ani). Mehmet found directions from a local who climbed in the car with us to take us to the site. It was located in the central village but pretty run down and not used as anything anymore but dates from the 1200's according to the impeccable and detailed
Eastern Turkey: an Architectural and Archaeological Survey Volume I by the learned T. A. Sinclair. Mehmet chatted up the local man (an elder) and we admired the lake views.
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| Mehmet chases the geese on the north side of Kars - maybe threatening to eat another one after our meal of last night |
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| Our first expedition to the Georgian churches (outside of the ones at Ani) - it is certainly immovable! |
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| The villager who guided to the church - nice but a little smelly when he crowded in the back seat with Alejandro and I |
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| The exterior shows some fine architectural detailing |
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| The villager tells Mehmet about life around Lake Cildir |
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| The old church is located immediately next to the modern mosque. We could not enter inside the church maybe due to the roof which is now growing grass :-). |
Our next stop was at a fish restaurant on the lake's edge near the northern end. It was lovely eating outside by the water and enjoying the grilled trout and some salad. It would turn out to be a very long time before we ate again so it was good that this meal was so satisfying.
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| The stark but beautiful Lake Cildir |
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| An island is located in the lake |
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| Mehmet, as usual, closes his eyes for photos but it does not detract from the beauty of the lake |
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| Our lunch spot right on the lake |
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| The beauty of Cildir |
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| Some ducks. Alas, it was the season for the fresh fish from the lake but we still enjoyed some very delicious trout |
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| Waiting for lunch - no beer to be found here of course though an Efes would have done nicely |
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| At the lunch table right at the water's edge |
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| Our healthy and tasty lunch - Coban Salatasi is always welcome |
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| The phone number in case you want to call for reservations |
Our next goal lay north of the lake beyond the village of Cildir and is termed Seytan Kalesi or Devil's Castle or Rabat Kalesi. It is actually a venerable fortress from the Middle Ages last rebuilt by the Byzantines. This was not remarkable as there are many such examples throughout Turkey but the setting cannot be matched. It is surrounded on three sides by a very steep and deep gorge leading down to the Kara Cay (Black River). It is a bit of climb to get to the castle along a narrow path that takes over from a very narrow but well paved road winding from the main road. The pictures hardly do the place justice. Mehmet, Alejandro and I enjoyed climbing into the castle area and the unbelievable views while Randy waited back closer to the car, his appreciation of ruins not as keen as ours.
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| The setting of the Rabat Kalesi - like a fairy tale |
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| Another view of this little known but amazing sight |
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| Alejandro and Mehmet consider what lies ahead |
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| At the car park area (which had no space and we had rearrange with another car that came after us) |
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| A panoramic with the castle in the background |
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| It almost looks like it could be put into service pretty readily |
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| One of the best sights of the trip - the highlight of the day on a day filled with superlatives |
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| Another panoramic - this one not quite fully finished |
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| Getting closer |
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| The wild scenery surrounding the castle |
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| Hiking up to get inside the castle proper |
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| Mehmet wonders at the location and how they built such a structure - it would not have been easy |
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| The drop off from the castle area interior was scary - the stream way below |
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| Taken from inside the castle area |
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| A selfie near the walls to show the stone details |
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| Looking up at the castle |
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| Another view - we could not get enough of it |
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| A parting view of this wonder - one of the best of the best for sure |
Retracing our steps to the main road, we continued westwards towards Savsat. We stopped at the village where we sought another small Georgian church. This dates from the 900's but we could not locate it. We asked some local people and they led us through their backyard to an overgrown area. There was definitely a ruin there but it could hardly be identifiable as a church, Georgian or otherwise. Nevertheless it was an interesting side trip and we met some nice people, a family of still locals and some that had migrated to Samsun (on the Black Sea) and were holidaying back at the family holding.
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| The map of the Savsat area - a place of great natural beauty and some pretty good history to boot |
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| View from the look out point near Savsat |
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| This deserves a selfie |
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| The ruins of (perhaps) a Georgian church - not much left now |
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| Wood is ready for the winter |
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| These locals helped us find what they was the church - we were not so sure it was what we were seeking |
Continuing to Savsat we detoured north to see another Georgian church, that of Tibeti at Cevizli. This ruin lies in a semi-rural area and is an impressive facade but little else. It dates from the 900's but enlarged in the 1000's. The dome collapsed in about 60 years prior to present day after a wedding celebration (must have been some reception!). The carvings are impressive but I could not spot any frescoes inside.
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| The Tibeti Church |
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| This is an impressive sight even though it is much ruined |
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| Carving detail on the exterior |
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| Some of the painting remains |
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| The Georgians were fine carvers |
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| Nice arches |
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| What it looked like before the dome collapsed - such a shame |
We headed back to the main road to Arvin and took another brief detour to scout out a further Georgian church, this one dramatically situated at Dolishane at the top of a high hill overlooking a reservoir. The church was pretty well preserved and was certainly worth the stop. The scenery was also worth a stop by itself.
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| The view from the village of Dolishane - note the satellite dish in the foreground |
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| The history of the venerable structure in Turkish, English and Georgian (as it should be) |
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| Randy and our trusty Hyundai outside of the church at Dolishane |
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| The interior in the early dusk |
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| Some frescoes remain - some nice feet here |
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| A carving of an angel (or a saint) |
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| What a location! |
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| Another view from Dolishane with the reservoir and mountains - really a splendidly situated place |
We went down the steep track back to the Artvin road. We got gas at Artvin, supposedly one of the most beautifully situated of the small cities in the region. It was not as impressive as much of the other scenery we saw that day or the next. It was dark by then and we hit a police road block outside of Artvin on the way to Borcka. They checked papers and delayed us a bit but let us go (PKK tensions were running high in eastern Turkey). We continued on a good road to Borcka and then turned off on a side road (but still decent and paved) north towards the border with Georgia. Things got difficult then. We enter the high country, it was totally dark and fog rolled in. We literally could not see much beyond the car. Our main fear was going over the side and down the mountain which might not have been fatal but it would have been a big wreck. At one point, Randy driving, Alejandro walked on one side of the car and Mehmet on the other side to make sure we stayed on the road. Even without the walkers we all opened our windows and gazed out continually to make sure we stayed on the road. After a harrowing hour we drove out of the fog and continued onward to our hostel, the
Macahel Green Roof Otel, located very close to the Georgian border. The last bit of road to get there was challenging - unpaved and extremely steep and with many turns. But, our trusty Hyundai made it and we arrived very late (around 11 PM).
We had already arrange (and paid) to have dinner there as there is no restaurant anywhere close. Mehmet was uncertain whether the people (a family) who owned the newer hostel would feed us this late. I insisted that they do. We were practically starving! The young man in charge told his mother (?) to heat up the leftovers of what they had ate that evening. We brought in a couple bottles of wine and opened them. What a feast! Being alive with good friends and decent wine and really tasty food in a very remote location was something to celebrate. Satiated we headed to our basic bedrooms for sleep. What a day of remarkableness!
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| Mehmet, as usual, is not so photogenic. That dinner tasted so good and the wine went down pretty easily! |
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| This day was one of the best ever even though (or maybe because) it included a near death experience (always happens when we travel to eastern Turkey with Mehmet). Can't believe all we did that day! |
